Allegato 276491
la spiegazione la trovate qui:
*famili n° 183 (mai 2008) : Les tricots de famili
Visualizzazione Stampabile
Allegato 276491
la spiegazione la trovate qui:
*famili n° 183 (mai 2008) : Les tricots de famili
le spiegazioni in francese qui:
Le mini gilet de jeune fille, deuxième version - Le blog de madame ça c'est chouette
Golfino a punto traforato per bimba
Allegato 277306Allegato 277307Allegato 277308
il completino del cuore
questo modellino è stato realizzato per "la maglia del cuore di Megghy.com"
(Da Lana e Bimbi n. 8)
Allegato 279017 Allegato 279018
Io l'ho fatto e questo è il risultato
Allegato 279019
Modello gentimente offertoci da Meny ed estratto dalla rivista Idee e Filati n. 48 del 2008
Allegato 280273Allegato 280275Allegato 280276
Da Lana e Bimbi 38
Allegato 305470Allegato 305471Allegato 305472
Allegato 305753Allegato 305754 é molto carino, le spiegazioni sono in russo, però credo che ci si possa arrivare senza spiegazioni.
ciao ciao
qui Bundles Of Love | Because every baby deserves the basics. ho trovato questo modellino free, con filato e ferri più sottili vengono taglie inferiori..
Baby Boy Knit Romper
(c)April 2004, Beth Koskie
(to be used for personal or charitable purposes only; NOT for sale or to make items for sale; if you make one, please consider donating it to a charity group in your area for a burial/blessing garment)
Note: this romper can be used as a blessing/burial garment, or made to fit a live baby; sizes
can be changed by changing needle size used. It’s adapted from one of many versions of the 5 Hour Baby Sweater.
Abbreviations:
BO = bind off
Inc = increase (usually by knitting in front and back of stitch)
K = knit
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
P = purl
PM = place marker
Rep = repeat from
Sts = stitches
YO = yarn over
Materials:
6-7 oz of WW yarn
Size 8 (straights and circulars work best)
6” length of snaps on a cloth tape strip (from fabric store, bought from a bolt or prepackaged)
4 Stitch markers
Yarn needle
Sewing needle and thread
6 buttons
Body:
Starting at neck, with size 8 needles, cast on 35 sts.
(note: I usually cast on with straight needles, then switch to circulars on row 1)
Rows 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K4, P27, K4.
Row 5 (buttonhole row): K1, K2tog, YO, K1, *inc, K1 rep from * across, end inc, K4 (49 sts).
Row 6: K4, P41, K4.
Row 7: K4, *K2tog, rep * across to last 5 sts, K5 (29 sts).
Row 8: K5, *K1 in strand between sts, K1, rep from * across to last 5 sts, K5 (49 sts).
Row 9: K4, *inc, K2, rep from * across, end inc, K5 (63 sts).
Row 10: K4, P55, K4.
Row 11: K4, *K2tog, rep * across to last 5 sts, K5 (36 sts).
Row 12: Repeat row 8 (63 sts).
Row 13: K5, *inc, K3, rep from * across, end, inc, K5 (77 sts).
Row 14: K4, P69, K4.
Row 15: Repeat row 11 (43 sts).
Row 16: Repeat row 8 (77 sts).
Row 17 (buttonhole row): K1, K2 tog, YO, K2, *inc, K4, rep from * across, end inc, K6 (91 sts).
Row 18: K4, P83, K4.
Row 19: Repeat row 11 (50 sts).
Row 20: Repeat row 8 (91 sts).
Row 21: K6, *inc, K5, rep from * across, end inc, K6 (105 sts).
Row 22: K4, P97, K4.
Row 23: Repeat row 11 (57 sts).
Row 24: Repeat row 8 (105 sts).
Row 25: K6 … inc, K4, inc, K4, inc, K1 (front 1, 21 sts) … PM … inc, K5, inc, K4, inc, K5, inc, K1 (sleeve 1, 23 sts) … PM … inc, K5, inc, K5, inc, K4, inc, 5, inc, K5, inc, K1 (back, 37 sts) … PM … inc, K5, inc, K4, inc, K5, inc, K1 (sleeve 2, 23 sts) … PM … inc, K4, inc, K4, inc, K7 (front 2, 21 sts). (125 sts total)
Row 26: K4, P117 (slipping markers as you go), K4.
Row 27: Knit to 1 stitch before marker, inc; slip marker; *increase, knit to 1 stitch before marker, inc; slip marker; repeat from * two more times; inc, knit to end (133 sts).
Row 28: Repeat row 26.
Row 29 (buttonhole row): K1, K2tog, YO, K1, then repeat row 27 (141 sts).
Row 30: Repeat row 26.
Create armholes/mid-section:
Row 31: K22, inc, remove marker; BO 27 sts, remove marker; inc, K37, inc, remove marker; BO 27 sts, remove marker; inc, K22 (91 sts).
Row 32: K4, P83, K4.
Row 33: Knit across.
Row 34: K4, P83, K4.
Rows 35-40: Repeat rows 33 and 34.
Row 41 (buttonhole row): K1, K2tog, YO, K1, Knit across.
Rows 42 – 47: Repeat rows 34 and 33 (end with a knit row).
Row 48-52: Knit across.
Row 53 (buttonhole row): K1, K2tog, YO, Knit across.
Rows 54-64: Knit across.
Row 65 (buttonhole row): K1, K2tog, YO, Knit across.
Row 66: Knit across.
Bottom – Front 1:
Switch to straight needles.
Row 1: K22, K2 tog, turn (leave rest of romper on circulars and just work with straight needs for Front 1).
Row 2: K2tog, K21.
Row 3: K20, K2tog.
Row 4: K2tog, K19.
Row 5: K18, K2tog.
Row 6: K2tog, K17.
Row 7: K16, K2tog.
Row 8: K2tog, K15.
Row 9: K14, K2tog.
Row 10: K2tog, K13.
Row 11: K12, K2tog.
Row 12: K2tog, K11.
Row 13 - 18: Knit across. Bind off.
Back:
Attach yarn to next stitch on main body and begin to work back section with straight needles.
Row 1: K2tog, K39,, K2tog, turn.
Row 2: K2tog, K37, K2tog.
Row 3: K2tog, K35, K2tog.
Row 4: K2tog, K33, K2tog.
Row 5: K2tog, K31, K2tog.
Row 6: K2tog, K29, K2tog.
Row 7: K2tog, K27, K2tog.
Row 8: K2tog, K25, K2tog.
Row 9: K2tog, K23, K2tog.
Row 10: K2tog, K21, K2tog.
Row 11: K2tog, K19, K2tog.
Row 12: K2tog, K17, K2tog.
Rows 13-18: Knit across. Bind off.
Front 2:
Attach yarn to next stitch on main body and begin to work second front section with straight needles.
Row 1: K2tog, K22.
Row 2: K21, K2tog.
Row 3: K20, K2tog.
Row 4: K2tog, K19.
Row 5: K18, K2tog.
Row 6: K2tog, K17.
Row 7: K16, K2tog.
Row 8: K2tog, K15.
Row 9: K14, K2tog.
Row 10: K2tog, K13.
Row 11: K12, K2tog.
Row 12: K2tog, K11.
Rows 13-18: Knit across. Bind off.
Finishing:
Weave in all yarn ends first.
Sew buttons in place on Front 2, opposite placement of buttonholes.
Lay snap tape flat.
Cut midway between snaps so you have fold-over ability, cutting a 4 snap strip.
Unsnap the strip.
Cut off one lower snap (the part that you snap “into”).
Cut top snap strip (the snap part that goes into the lower strip) in half, so you have 2 snaps in each strip.
Now, hand sew lower 3-snaps strip onto top of back crotch edge, so you can actually see the snaps from the outside when looking at the back of the romper. Make sure to tuck under ends and stitching firmly in place; in fact, it helps to even stitch “seam” lines up between each snap for added strength.
Next, hand sew upper 2-snap strip to the “under/inside” side of Front 2, again tucking under ends and stitching firmly in place.
Then stitch 1 “single” lower snap to top of front two section, right at the front corner edge of crotch, stitching firmly all around with ends tucked under.
Last, stitch second 2-snap strip to under/inside front 1, at the crotch, firmly with ends tucked.
To close crotch, snap Front 2 to back first, then snap Front 1 to back and Front 2.
To make for “live” baby changes:
The only difference is that you can overlap the two fronts to accommodate the buttons and buttonholes, sew the fronts together at the bottom and up approximately 1”. Then cut 1 strip of 3 snaps, and firmly stitch lower side to back of crotch and upper side to fronts.
qui ce n'è un altro, è fatto coi circolari ma se si prosegue l'apertura fino in fondo secondo me va bene lo stesso...:D
Sue's Onesie
Materials
For preemie/small newborn size
Size 4 and 6 dpns or 16 inch circular needles
Sport weight or baby yarn - model made with Lion Brand Baby Soft
3 buttons
Stitch markers
3 snaps
2 pieces of ¼ ribbon (each 16 inches long) for girl sleeves
With smaller needles, cast on 58 sts. Work in K1, P1 ribbing for 3 rows.
Buttonhole row: K1, P2 tog, yo, continue in ribbing. Work 2 more rows in ribbing.
Switch to larger needles and K 1 row, dividing work as follows: K10, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K5, inc in next st, place marker, inc n next st, K20, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K5, inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K10. (8 increases)
Row 2: K5, purl across, K5.
Yoke
Row 3: Knit across, continuing to increase before and after each marker on each knit row.
Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: Purl across, Knitting first 5 and last 5 sts of the row.
Row 5: Buttonhole row. Knit across the row working a K1 increase before and after each marker, to within 3 sts of end, then Yo, K 2 tog, K1.
Rows 7 and 9: Knit
Row 11: repeat row 5.
Row 13 and 15: Knit
Row 16 Placket front: Slip the last 5 sts from needle to dpn, hold behind the first 5 sts. (Make sure the buttonholes are to the outside of the shirt.) Knit the 5 sts from the needle and the 5 sts from the dpn together so you end up with 5 sts and a placket opening. Continue to knit the row on dpns (or circular needles) - knitting is circular.
Next round: inc before and after each marker
Continue inc every other round until yoke measures 3 (3 ½) inches. Measure along raglan line, not including the neck ribbing.
Sleeves: knit to sleeve section, the sts between the first and second markers. Leaving all other sts on circular needles work over sleeve sts with larger dpns. Divide sleeve sts into thirds and join to knit circular. (The sleeves could be worked flat and then the inseam sewn after the shirt is finished.) The beg and end of this row will be the sleeve inseam. K 2 rounds, then switch to smaller needles and work 4 rounds of K1, P1 ribbing. Bind off loosely in ribbing. Attach yarn and knit over to the other sleeve section. Repeat sleeve directions.
Variation - Girl Sleeves: work flat in rows.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl.
Row 3: K1, *K2tog, yo, repeat from * across. Eyelet row
Row 4: purl
Row 5: knit
Row 6: knit
Bind off in knit.
Thread ribbon through eyelets and tie in a bow on top.
Body: All sts remaining are the body of the onesie. Attach yarn and knit circular on right side joining the front to the back . Continue with the body until it is 7 ½ inches long or desired body length.
Leg shaping: Divide work at sides (46 sts to the back and 45 sts to the front).
Back
Using straight needles work across the back sts (leaving the front sts on circular needles).
Row 1: K1, K2tog, K40, K2 tog, K1
Row 2: p1, p2tog, P38, P2tog , P1
Repeat these 2 rows, decreasing 1 st at each side until 18 sts remain. Work 5 rows even.
Next row: P8, P2tog, P8
Bind off in knit.
Front
Using straight needles work across front sts
Row 1: K1, K2tog, K39, K2tog, K1
Row 2: P1, P2tog P 37, P2tog P1
Repeat these 2 rows decreasing 1 st at each side until 17 sts remain. Work 6 rows even. Bind off in knit.
Finishing:
Sew on buttons
Weave in ends
Sew snaps on crotch opening, lapping front over back.
Copyright, April 2004, Susan A. Coes
Citazione:
Originariamente Scritto da deborah
qui c'è la traduzione autorizzata di entrambi i modelli....a saperlo prima...:D basta un filo........ lavori a maglia per bambini: tutine a maglia
Eccolo qua, vediamo se può essere utile.
baby surprise jacket: episode 1 - YouTube
se clikko sui due link mi esce una pagina che non c'entra nulla. Forse è cambiato qualcosa ?Citazione:
Originariamente Scritto da manuela62
Ciao Grazia forse le foto sono state postate dal sito che si apre e per il quale ci vuole il login....probabilmente chi le ha postate era registrato e noi invece non le vediamoCitazione:
Originariamente Scritto da grazia52